Join us to the cradle of flamenco, to the magical Andalusia, through unique and duende places to soak up and feel the flamenco you love like never before.
Soak upAuthentic flamenco is possible in its cradle, in Andalusia, in those places that, far from mass tourism, preserve the essence of singing, playing and dancing of this artistic genre.
Soaking up those emotions and rhythms that surround the birth of Spanish art par excellence is an experience that will make any fan happy. So, treat yourself to a treat! Or rather, 20… The ones offered by these authentic places in Andalusia that we propose. (And don’t tell too many people… They will be our secret.)
Where flamingos are “locked up”: Torrox
Flamenco artists “escape” to this town of Malaga to create, share with each other and give free rein to their talent. The City Council of Torrox has joined the Flamenco Festival and the Concienciarte Foundation to offer rural accommodation to give peace to artists and a workspace in the Municipal Theater. This is what is known as residences.
Manuel Liñán, an example of authentic flamenco, created “Amor, Amado, Amen” in this environment of Torrox. He and other artists perform for the village and its visitors by taking advantage of these residencies. This video is an example of the creativity that emerges in the theatre of Torrox.
This video is an example of the creativity that emerges in the theatre of Torrox. Or on the beaches, because they say that in Torrox you will find “the best weather in Europe”. Scientifically proven.
In addition, if you go this autumn or at Christmas, you will be able to give yourself more joy in every way. On the Sunday before the Christmas festivities, next to the Mercadillo de la Almazara, migas are prepared and distributed, which are offered to all the inhabitants and visitors who come to Torrox. A glass of wine and a muleteer salad accompany the meal, which takes place in a magnificent festive atmosphere. Afterwards, the music and dancing continue in the Plaza de la Constitución. This event has been declared of National Tourist Interest in Andalusia.
During the previous weeks, various cultural events and recreational activities take place, such as the Wine of the Land Competition. There is no shortage of verdiales bands, nor the music of the municipal band and other bands invited to participate in the festivities.
The authentic flamenco is in the peñas (the old-fashioned way…)
The flamenco clubs are the result of flamenco fans and lovers who come together to study it, promote new artists and, above all, share this passion. The oldest are Juan Breva and La Platería, in Malaga and Granada, respectively. So they are a must-see…
Within the framework of the circuit that promotes recitals of budding talents by the peñas of Andalusia (and which are free), these autumn months are filled with flamenco to share with the local public and from all over the world.
With a glass of sherry and a tapa of ham, next to locals who are knowledgeable in their flamenco styles, you can enjoy the moment much better. And they become friends.
Styles such as the fandangos of Huelva, where, until 23 November, its peñas put all their effort into celebrating flamenco that preserves this style. If you’re there, here’s their sign:
But we are going to give you another direction, that of the intimate and joyful Peña Juanito Villar, dedicated, as you can imagine, to Juan Villar, an exceptional singer who is a living legend of traditional flamenco. It is in Cádiz, of course, where Juan Villar gets his songs and his alegrías and tangos.
What stands out the most about this place is that it is under an old, very traditional vault. As it is next to the beach, about 12 meters away, give yourself the little joy of walking through the area until you reach this peña that is well known for its bar and its portions. The fried foods are embroidered.
And if we talk about the essence of flamenco, we have to know that the performances on its stage are of a high level. If you visit this peña, you will be in the company of artists, flamenco specialists and experts in this art. And it’s very possible that you’ll run into Juan Villar himself, who goes there a lot.
If you like Juan Villar, Don’t miss the tribute paid to him in his homeland of Cadiz on October 31st, sponsored by the Junta de Andalucía and that ALL FLAMENCO will premiere on its channel.
With your hands: play an artisan flamenco guitar
Master craftsmen of the flamenco guitar can be counted on one hand. It is a dying profession. Their guitars, works of art, too. They are therefore sold at the price of gold. But their sound is incredible, unique. Touching one of them is going to become one of your little moments of happiness for the rest of your life.
Cordoba has one of the last luthiers, José Rodríguez Peña, who has recently been granted the title of master craftsman by the Junta de Andalucía. His workshop is open, it’s tiny, it smells like Flemish wood… Come in and say hello to this friendly guitar maker with many stories to tell.
But it’s Almeria to go if you’re short on time for travel. There it is almost obligatory to give yourself a happy moment in the workshop of the son of the master of the twentieth century in flamenco guitars, Gerundino. From his delicate hands came guitars for greats such as Paco de Lucía, and with his son, the tradition continues.
Antonio de Torres, the creator of the modern Spanish guitar, both classical and flamenco, was not so lucky. His great-grandson, Juan Francisco Salvador, was the only one who followed his craft, but he died at a young age and no one follows in the wake of this great man anymore.
Lovers of flamenco, music in general, collectors, the widow of the great-grandson… They have helped two essential places if you like playing: the Guitar Museum (entrance fee of about 2 euros) and the house of Antonio de Torres, today a museum with his pieces, his workshop, his secrets… And admission is free.
Antonio built guitars for Julián Arcas, one of the pioneers of flamenco and creator of the rondeñas, among other flamenco compositions.
Falla and Tárrega also adored his creations. As an appetizer, this video gives an account of his life.
Experience flamenco in “its neighborhoods”
Flamenco was born in the common people, so you have to live with those people the pinch of their soul. Two neighborhoods are essential to immerse yourself in authentic Andalusian art: Triana, in Seville, and Santiago, in Jerez. There are more, of course, such as El Perchel, in Cordoba.
We, however, if we only have one option, prefer to walk through La Bajadilla in Algeciras. the neighborhood of Paco de Lucía, the one that inspired his music. His places are remembered in songs such as “Entre Dos Aguas”, “Almoraima”, or “Río de la miel”.
If you fall in love with this God of touch, sign up for this tour proposed by its City Council. Download it here.
The Rinconcillo beach was a summer resort for Paco and his relatives, and the Casa Bernardo beach bar was a place of fish where the guitarist went to have fried anchovies, nettles and puntillitas. He liked it so much that he dedicated a cheerful rumba to it, named after this place. It’s still open! So, you have to go overboard…
You can’t leave Andalusia without strolling through the Calle Fabié in Seville. Naranjito de Triana was born here (at number 24) and Paquita Rico and Curro Fernández have lived there. In this house in the style of the corrals, that of the Fernandezes, it was celebrated The last big gypsy wedding in the neighborhood:Salud Ríos and Juan José Fernández. Pastora Imperio, La Niña de los Peines, Antonio Mairena and Tomás Pavón attended the event.
Yes, there are tablaos for you too
In search of authentic flamenco, we are not against the great tablaos. But many of them offer, and they say it clearly, shows for tourists, with what that entails if we talk about the jondo… However, at the end of the day, they have a crucial role in the expansion of this art and in feeding those singers, dancers, percussionists… who are not lucky enough to be on the circuits of the big boys (who, by the way, also perform on them). The fact is that they have a lot of leprechaun, a lot of history, when they are ancient.
That’s why going to the famous Los Gallos in Seville is very interesting, even though today it’s very touristy. Paquera de Jerez, María Jiménez and Carmen Amaya have passed through it. It is possible that some of the talents in his paintings will enter the sky of the stars of flamenco. We say interesting because there are no microphones, speakers or amplifiers on their stage. It’s all bareback. Its owners claim that it is the oldest (from 1966), but it is not.
The oldest in Seville and Andalusia, specifically from 1952, is El Patio Andaluz, where Matilde Coral, El Farruco, and Manuela Vargas performed.
And in the quintessential flamenco district of Seville, it opened recently (2012), Casa LaTeatro inside the Mercado de Abastos. It’s not that there’s a lot of flamenco roots, except for the experience itself. Here’s why.
Their stage is 6 square meters and they can only have 28 spectators. It’s probably the smallest theater you’ve ever seen. It works, as we have said, like a tablao when it comes to flamenco performances (which they have daily), but they offer everything: magic, cabaret, children’s workshops… And flamenco classes, such as a very special one, the castanets.
In this small space, you can live a very authentic experience. The charm of the room makes it a privileged meeting place for the public and artists. And this is one of his performances:
Without leaving Seville, the Casa de la Memoria is another of those places that must be visited. Located in what used to be the Stables of the Lebrija Palace, there are dance, sing, or play artists of recognized national and international prestige, as well as conferences and exhibitions.
We’re leaving Seville. Another modern tablao, but in a place full of history, is La Cueva (in Granada, in the wonderful neighborhood of Albayzín) and it is, precisely, in one of the most beautiful caves in Andalusia. It is also a restaurant, so there you can have a good time giving yourself gastronomic joys (based on good Andalusian Iberian meats) and musicals.
To look for roots, both in music and in a flamenco saga full of tradition, we go to the Amaya club in Sacromonte, in their native Granada. It was the Reina Mora in ’71, with El Parranda at the helm. Since 2001, the Amaya family called it Albayzín, and it has since been a crucial springboard for young artists who have left their mark on the world of flamenco, including talents such as Fuensanta La Moneta, Patricia Guerrero, David Carmona, Alfredo Tejada and Ismael El Bola.
This iconic flamenco tablao is strategically located on the famous San Cristóbal viewpoint, which crowns the historic Albayzín neighborhood, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
If you prefer to visit Malaga, you have to know that Antonio Canales has said that the best show in Spain in flamenco tablao is that of the local Pepe López, formerly El Jaleo, also full of a lot of flamenco history. Camarón de la Isla, el Carrete, El Chino de Málaga, Mario Maya, and La Chata, passed through there.
Time for a drink in taverns and tabancos
Since we’ve just talked about Malaga, let’s continue here for a few moments. A place full of flamenco in its walls, in its smell and its shows, a living painting to understand the flamenco spirit and its essence, it’s the Taberna Flamenca Amargo. “Abstain guiris“, say their owners, who are committed to the complaint of the traditional. Rociera y torera also serves an exceptional Andalusian Iberian ham.
We travelled to Cadiz. A little-known place outside of Andalusia is Casa Manteca. You have to go to this bar because, in addition to being celebrating its anniversary (it was opened by a Cantabrian 70 years ago), it was where you could drink manzanilla de Sanlúcar in bulk, in large sips, in the times when it also worked as a grocery store.
That’s how some of his favorite customers took it: Camarón de la Isla and Rancapino. Also emblematic of the “flamenco and bullfighting” marriage, as in the previous Malaga proposal, an almost indissoluble duo historically, it gives this place a rancid but beautiful charm. Shrimp omelettes, an emblematic dish of this coastal city, is one of its specialties. Their wines and cured meats are still in fashion, which you have to savour no matter what. Its regulars say that the place has a soul, goblin, shall we go there?
In Granada we find the Bar Provincias. Among the flamenco bars, this is a classic for the people of Granada, because it is one of “the traditional ones”. It was inaugurated in 1945 in an alley between two of the most beautiful squares in the city, the Cathedral and the Bib-Rambla. Its walls are full of memories of flamenco artists, especially Enrique Morente. And this is the type of public that continues to go for tapas at this establishment. A must try their fried fish well washed down with beer or the Andalusian crumbs. There you will find the saga of the Morente, with a bit of luck.
In Cordoba you have to go to La Fuenseca, a flamenco classic (180 years of life!), a place where you can easily meet some renowned artists, young promises, writers, painters… A place for meetings and gatherings, for moments of guitar and singing, for exhibitions; This is where the peña that honors Merengue de Córdoba meets. Andalusian wines are their speciality and their tapas are very much of the local gastronomy.
Shopping… End of the journey
The We Love Flamenco and Simof catwalks have made flamenco costumes and accessories fashionable. They are held in Seville, the capital of fans, flamenco dresses and hats.
Speaking of hats, we enter the commercial and historic Sierpes street in Seville. A corner awaits us, although it is not very secret. Sometimes, there are only tourists looking at this beautiful shop located in an art deco building. It is Maquedano, the first hat shop in the capital of Seville and, to this day, the last one that remains. Its wide-brimmed models, exclusive and handcrafted, are sold out with the April Fair.
Ángela & Adela, Rocío Peralta, or the Manila shawls of Bordados Foronda are classic visits if you want to know what the embroidery of dresses, jackets or shawls was like. Ángeles Espinar, an artisan embroiderer for six decades who gave a shawl to Queen Letizia that she wore, knows a lot about the latter. Eva Yerbabuena and Matilde Coral also have their personal designs. It is a wonderful appointment to go to her workshop, which her daughter runs, because it is in a town dedicated to crafts and embroidery for more than a century: Villamanrique de la Condesa.
And in this town with a great Rocio tradition, there is a place that few people know about: the Association of Drummers, where they will teach you how to play the traditional tambourine. From this group come the musicians who play for the different brotherhoods of our country.