Juana Martin makes history in Paris
The designer debuted her new collection, Andalusia, at the Paris Haute Couture week.
Among the melodies of Diego del Morao, the voice of Israel Fernandez and the presence of the great Rossy De Palma started the fashion show of the Spanish designer Juana Martin in Paris. The Cordovan made history on July 7 after debuting in the week of Haute Couture in the French capital. A collection to wear in autumn-winter 2022-2023 that has been called Andalusia, the land that represents her roots and in which she has been inspired for more than twenty years.
In April, the Andalusian woman was awarded the patronage of the French Fashion Federation after a detailed analysis of her workshops, suppliers and, of course, previous collections. Her workshop in Cordoba, staffed by local women from her hometown, are the hands that are behind the 27 handmade garments presented by the designer. The stunning Cordovan-inspired hats, designed by Vivas Carrión, and the shoes that imitated the footwear of male flamenco dancers, by Maison Fegler, accompanied this powerful and original fashion show.
Juana Martin shows the most traditional and suffering Andalusia by presenting a collection made in black and white. The outfits suggest the contrast of mourning, still present in many Andalusian towns, with the bright white walls that characterize the south of Spain. The designer has been inspired by the Lorca tradition that drinks from the pain and strength of a land that, although full of light and joy, contains a memory full of tradition and purity.
The vigor and integrity of the flat colors break their monotony with the sparkles of the crystals in the pieces and the luster of the jewels -by Plata Pura Joyas-. The ruffles of the garments and the volume of the structures make this work, characterized by opposition and counterpoints, combine the sensuality of flamenco dresses with other more undefined clothes.
The fashion show is one of the most important moments in Juana Martín's career. The Cordovan has become the first woman designer to receive an invitation from the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Her participation in this event is added to the list of achievements she has made since 1999, when she became the first gypsy woman to be part of the Spanish fashion industry.
The designer finished establishing her name in 2005, when she became the first Cordovan, gypsy and Andalusian woman to reach the Cibeles Fashion Week. Since then, she has not stopped promoting her work on a larger scale. In 2018, after opening several stores throughout Spain, she settled in Paris. Juana has pushed her career forward among the requirements and demands of French fashion. Her first collection presented in France, entitled Camarón, 30 years later, began to attract the attention of the French Federation of Haute Couture.
The craftsmanship and customs of southern Spain, in connection with flamenco, do not cease to attract the interest of trends around the world. Whether it is the innovation of Juana Martin in Paris, or the impact of the Dior fashion show in Seville, everything indicates that local fashion will enjoy a great impact in the near future.
Although on this occasion Juana Martin has been a visiting designer for the French Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, it is possible that Pascal Morand, president of the group, will again count on her talent next year. Perhaps the face of the Cordovan begins to be common among the guest members of the Parisian Haute Couture.