Just in autumn, under temperatures of around 18 ºC, the colours dye the coasts golden and the fragrances of quince permeate the orchards, creating the right atmosphere to experience a flamenco of sensations and emotion. Join us?
After the boisterous and lively summer, Andalusia becomes more intimate during the autumn season. It is a magnificent time for rural, gastronomic and, of course, musical tourism, to be enjoyed with all 5 senses. From end to end, we propose these small paradises to experience the joys that this autonomous community offers you. With flamenco, of course…
Morón de la Frontera: paradise on earth for flamenco
And in this case, theparadiseIt’s very real. In the Morón of the 60s and 70s, a kind of flamenco commune was set up through which many of the great figures of the time passed. And not only. Japan’s love for flamenco stems from that era, for example. What happened in that Sevillian town?
On the one hand, its tremendous flamenco history. In this small village of whitewashed houses, the so-called “a cuerda pelá” was born, which is that of the thumb chopped. The creator was Diego el Gastor (1908-1973) who, although he was from Malaga, grew up in this place in the mountains south of Seville. Morón’s touch is already a reference style for guitarists in Spain and around the world.
Morón is also the land of Silverio Franconetti (1831-1839), one of the most powerful and complete flamenco singers.
On the other hand, this town, even under the dictatorship, hosted one of the first North American bases (1953). With them, a military worker named Don Pohren (1931-2007) appeared, author of “A Way of Life” in 1962, a whole philosophy of flamenco that won awards inside and outside our borders.
This guitarist and flamencologist, whom he fell in love with the art of Carmen Amaya when he met her in Mexico, he joined her admired Diego el Gastor to give authentic flamenco lessons to Americans and other foreigners. His book, a bestseller, appealed to them like honey.
And the building that he renovated to turn it into a flamenco center (the Espartero), the center of performances and continuous artistic play. Fernanda de Utrera and her sister Bernarda de Utrera, Fernandillo, el Niño Rosa, Anzonini, Manolito de María, Perrate de Utrera, Antonio Mairena… Pohren was also the biographer of Paco de Lucía.
His work is a hymn to a way of living flamenco beyond the notes. This flamenco paradise ended with the death of Diego del Gastor in 1973.
But Morón has preserved that way of feeling the gypsy art of the area. So, behind these lines of context, we encourage you to visit the bars where these creative minds met to find the flamenco duende. Many of them took place in the Círculo Mercantil, as well as in Casa Pepe (now defunct), Bar Alemán or the Tertulia El Gallo. And let yourself go, because there’s a lot of history.
Sanlúcar de Barrameda: official paradise
No. We don’t say it, but a ranking prepared by the British newspaper The Telegraph after selecting the 20 most beautiful villages in the country. For its “elegant harbors, quiet beaches, gorgeous seafood restaurants, and whitewashed buildings adorned with bougainvillea,” No. 1 is Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the land of guitar virtuoso, Manolo Sanlúcar. For its “elegant harbors, quiet beaches, gorgeous seafood restaurants, and whitewashed buildings adorned with bougainvillea,” No. 1 is Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the land of guitar virtuoso, Manolo Sanlúcar. We shared the suggestion, and added that of going to the bar of Guille Muñoz (Astronautas), a relative of the maestro. It promises good tapas and good flamenco.
Sunsets in Andalusia, ephemeral paradises
Andalusian beaches are considered among the best in the world. In almost all the Travelers’ Choice lists, which are voted by TripAdvisor users, there is usually the famous Playa de Bolonia, in Tarifa. Or the Cadiz Zahara de los Atunes, Calahonda (from Granada), Matalascañas, in Huelva… These and dozens of other beaches and coves in Andalusia are worth a visit, it is difficult to choose just one.
In autumn, with fewer bathers, it is even easier to walk through them and enjoy the sunsets in peace. That’s why the one in Bologna, which is wonderful but usually has quite a lot of people, you will enjoy it in all its splendour in autumn.
Near Doñana, there are the few virgin beaches left in Spain; The beach of Nueva Umbría is very quiet, in the natural area “Marismas del Río Piedras y Flecha de El Rompido”, with about 15 km of white sand and beautiful sunsets.
But since flamenco is our thing, how about a visit to the beach of Rinconcillo in Algeciras? It is the beach of Paco de Lucía’s childhood and where he had a house in his middle age. Una casa que se llenaba de artistas como su propio hermano, Pepe de Lucía, Malú, Alejando Sanz…
Today, flamenco is lived there in beach bars and bars that remind us of the master of the guitar playing in his piped music or with live concerts. With fine sand and crystal clear waters, its views of the Rock of Gibraltar are very good. Paco dedicated a tango to him.
Speaking of Flemish destinations, in case you want to visit the places of their getaways, we know that the Golden Key of Cante, Fosforito, stroll along Malaga beaches such as La Carihuela, urban and quiet. Also in Malaga, Estrella Morente enjoys the beautiful beach of Maro, but also loves the coast of Almuñécar (Granada), where she treasures memories of her childhood.
Alegrías in Andalusia: a Jerez with the stick that suits it
Sherry and flamenco come together in a large part of the history of this genre in Andalusia. In the origin and development of tabancos that we describe in this article, you can see why.
The tabanco de São Paulo is one of those places of union. It is one of the oldest in the city, dating back to 1934, and they still serve the wines directly from the butt. It is common to see locals having a tapa of their famous potato omelette or “choriloso”, a chorizo in wine that is an emblem of this tabanco.
Or see artists from the area who, suddenly, take off with a bulería. Camarón de la Isla or Paco Cepero passed through there, so you can tell the duende.
By way of experience, if you go to a tabanco, the Consejo Regulador de los vinos de Jerez, wines that were (and are tasted) in the tabancos in the heat of the flamenco son, proposes a harmony for each flamenco wine and style:
- pair a palo cortado with the intensity of the seguiriya or seguidilla;
- the oloroso, an old wine, with the experience of life after a soleá: and,
- the bulería de Jerez with the freshness of a fine wine.
This way of “drinking flamenco and listening to wine”, as many call this interesting synesthetic (sensory) experience, is part of conferences and demonstrations of great Michelin stars. Like the one in this video by the great Josep Roca (from the Girona restaurant Celler de Can Roca, among the best in the world) to the rhythm of Diego del Morao’s Jerez guitar. Let’s hope it will be a good finishing touch to this Andalusia of paradises.
Catalogue of Beaches in Andalusia
Beach Catalogue Viewer – Junta de Andalucía (juntadeandalucia.es)
ASTRONAUTS
C. Pirrado, 22, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Cádiz
Real Bodega de la Concha, González Byass
C. Desconsuelo, 1, Jerez de la Frontera, Cádiz
German Bar
Paseo la Alameda, 9, Morón de la Frontera, Seville
Tertulia Flamenca El Gallo
C. Calzadilla, 8, Morón de la Frontera, Seville
Tabanco de São Paulo
C. San Pablo, 12, 11401 Jerez de la Frontera, Cádiz
Santa Petronila Winery
Carretera del Calvario, km. 3,5, Seville